We made a quick trip to the mid-coast of Maine in search of a new site for Two Down Dogs world headquarters (translation: we’re moving). We booked only a few days in advance and flew from Newark to Portland and then made the nearly 2-hour drive up to the Beach Cottage Inn, about 10 minutes north of Camden on Lincolnville Beach.
It wasn’t fancy (after all, we’re in Maine, so it’s not supposed to be) but comfortable and had a view of the beach. The inn is located next door to the Whale’s Tooth Pub, and has the same owners.
The sunrise was spectacular and at low tide it was perfect for a walk on the beach, before walking up Route 1 about 10 minutes to Dot’s for coffee and breakfast. Later in the day we went across the street to Green Tree Coffee and Tea, a rustic coffee roaster with rocking chairs on the front porch, and also stopped at The Alpaca Experience — because, why wouldn’t we.
We headed into Camden, which is certainly one of the loveliest coastal towns in Maine, with a small but vibrant downtown, scenic harbor and wonderful homes. Our favorites were on Bay View Street, where the Owl & Turtle Café Bookstore sat across from the Cashmere Goat. Wool, books and coffee are a few of our favorite attractions. We had been up in April for a preliminary look through the area, so these two photos are from that visit.
Then it was off to the Camden Real Estate Company, where we started our tour of four properties. The first was in town, a beautiful old home right in Camden that was far too much house for our needs. The second, also in Camden, was an ocean-front property that would require building a new house and was, in our opinion, too much work at this stage in our lives.
Then we moved on to Northport, which sits right above Lincolnville and doesn’t have the price tag or taxes of homes in Camden. The first was a magnificent, open concept home, newer construction, with a wonderful view of the ocean — from an enclosed porch that made it tough to resist.
Finally, we moved on to the last property and the reason for our visit. The home was smaller, the view good but not quite as good as the other one. It was also open concept. It had advantages, mostly the price, but by the time we scheduled the trip and got up there, someone had made a bid and the house was already under contract.
So it was back to drown our sorrows in martinis and lobster at the Whale’s Tooth Pub, followed by a walk on the beach and ice cream by the ocean.
We may not have found our home yet, but Maine seemed perfect for us.
We’ll start at the end of visit to Kyoto. And the best. Mamecha. Set on a beautiful side street in Gion, the family style restaurant was the top recommendation of our hosts at Old Kyoto, and they were right. Here we discovered why Kyoto is famous for its tofu, enjoying a silken tofu dish that melted in our mouths.
There were several courses, each with a handful of dishes, and from the tofu of our first course to the five-sashimi dish to the delightful tempura to the beef and then the ice cream and cup of matcha, every morsel was delicious.
Getting there: Our wonderful host Junko at Old Kyoto made the reservation, which is recommended, but the sign sits just a foot off the ground on a narrow side street. It’s not easy to find and took us two tries. Just keep your eyes open for a sign with these green marks.
Sake Seconds
We were particularly good at getting lost when looking for restaurants. Addresses are not easy to find, and most restaurants don’t have signs in English. Add a little jet lag to that combination, and you’re happy for a glass of sake and a rice ball (that’s a thing). Then one lucky night we stumbled into a little bar and enjoyed a simple meal, carefully prepared cocktails and sake overflowing in glasses that rested in little wooden boxes. The overflow was “seconds” we were told.
Department Store Dining
We heard about the basement of Takashimaya Department Store, and while the concept sounded odd, we gave it a try. The food turned out to be head and shoulders above any American supermarket with takeout food. Along with sushi and sashimi (that made us wonder what we had been eating all those years in the states), there are endless salads, meats, fresh produce, bakeries, a premium liquor store for sake, wine or whiskey, and more. We found it habit forming – relying on it for three of our eight nights in Kyoto.
Getting There: It’s a big building at the corner of Shijo and Kawaramachi streets in Downtown Kyoto, so it’s easy to find, walkable from Gion and across the street from a train station.
Nishiki Market
And then there is the famous Nishiki Market, where locals, restauranteurs and tourists mingle among more than 125 vendors stretched along pedestrian-only blocks in the middle of Downtown Kyoto. It’s worth a stroll just to marvel at the food. On our first trip, we bought the smoked eel bento and had it for lunch at our guest house. We weren’t disappointed.
Getting There: It’s in the middle of downtown, a block north of Shijo-dori, running from Teramachi to Takakura-dori, and accessible by train from the Karasuma line to Shijo or the Hanku line to Karasuma or Kawaramachi.
Next Up: Day Trip to Nara–Home of the Great Buddha and Deer That Roam Free
One of the biggest surprises in Kyoto were the coffee shops, and here are some of the places we found wonderful brewed coffee, espresso, lattes and espresso-matcha latte.
We got our first taste when we walked east through Gion along Ninen-zaka and ducked into a side street across from Kodai-j Temple. While the brewing process looked at first like a science experiment, it turned out to be what we would come to know in nearly every coffee shop we experienced—fresh, delicious coffee brewed before us with care. Here, we chose our cups, which were first warmed with hot water, and on the way out selected a paper crane.
Later that day, before crossing the bridge and heading to Morita Washi in Downtown Kyoto, we stopped in the Tonbo Café. Again, it was a freshly brewed cup presented perfectly, a respite during long days of walking. And this time, we listened to jazz as we sipped, the music we would hear in every coffee shop and cafe in Kyoto.
One of our favorites was Café Yoshiko set along Ponto-Cho, a delightful little road that runs north and south once you cross from Gion to Downtown Kyoto, and next to a small, wooden foot bridge. Here you can gaze out over the water and watch people go by.
In Arashiyama, we found spacious Café Akamanma after visiting the Bamboo Grove, and we had our first experience with the fluffy toast that became hard to resist (at least for the one of us who is not gluten free).
There were two coffee shops near our guest house in Gion. The much heralded Arabika, along the road that leads to Kiyomizu-Dera, lived up to its billing and had a line out the door. We passed. But the upscale Coffee & Tea on Higashioji-dori, though a bit pricey, served delicious cups of espresso and matcha latte. And the Zen experience didn’t feel anything like home.
Also in Gion, around the corner from Café Tonbo, we found a small café with good coffee and toast.
And let’s not forget the counter in the basement of the Takashimaya Department Store in Downtown Kyoto, a wonderful surprise which we’ll explore further in the next blog on food in Kyoto.
Up Next: The Food of Kyoto – Nishiki Market, Department Store Dining and Mamecha