From Mr. Koya, we headed south to the Kumano Kodo (Kumano Old Road). This ancient pilgrimage route is a network of wooded trails, some UNESCO-protected, that is steeped in Shintoism, which predated the introduction of Buddhism to Japan in the mid-6th century.
We stayed in Hongu, a midway point along the route, for two nights. Heavy rains blanketed the area when we arrived at the Watarese Onsen hot spring resort, part of a three-hotel complex. The highlight was a set of large outdoor, private onsens that we reached by walking over a narrow suspension bridge that was lit at night. It was mid-May, but not busy at all, and a relaxing soak was just what we needed after the drive–and several times after that.
Nachi Taishi Shrine and Seinganto-ji Temple
The next morning (with rain threatening) we drove east to Shingu and then inland to Nachi Taishi, one of the primary destinations along the route. Parking was easy, the crowds were light, and we walked a short, but beautiful stretch of one of the Kumano Kodo paths to the Nachi Taishi Shinto shrine and the Seinganto-ji Buddhist Temple.
Mist covered the mountain peaks as we continued on to the three-storied pagoda, resting near the Nachi-no-Taki waterfall, the tallest in Japan. The pagoda is the first “etiquette place” of the pilgrimage around the 33 holy places in the area, and it was a sight we had anticipated seeing for months.
Around the pagoda was a koi pond, gardens, buddhas and a stone picnic area. The few people there all magically vanished when we sat to have our lunch, as if the Shinto gods wanted us to have a peaceful meal. Seated along the mist-shrouded garden with the pagoda and waterfall before us, we had just that experience.
Saying Good-bye at Shirarahama Beach
Our visit to Japan was coming to an end, and we left the mountains and drove to our hotel near Kansai Airport, where we planned to take the train into Osaka to get a taste of the big city. Instead, we drove past Tanabe to Shirarahama Beach for a relaxing afternoon with turquoise water and white sand.
The sky was beautiful all day, and before we left, a horizontal rainbow appeared. We learned later it’s called a fire rainbow, which we captured just before it faded. It seemed to be Japan’s way of saying good-bye.
