We made a quick trip to the mid-coast of Maine in search of a new site for Two Down Dogs world headquarters (translation: we’re moving). We booked only a few days in advance and flew from Newark to Portland and then made the nearly 2-hour drive up to the Beach Cottage Inn, about 10 minutes north of Camden on Lincolnville Beach.
It wasn’t fancy (after all, we’re in Maine, so it’s not supposed to be) but comfortable and had a view of the beach. The inn is located next door to the Whale’s Tooth Pub, and has the same owners.
The sunrise was spectacular and at low tide it was perfect for a walk on the beach, before walking up Route 1 about 10 minutes to Dot’s for coffee and breakfast. Later in the day we went across the street to Green Tree Coffee and Tea, a rustic coffee roaster with rocking chairs on the front porch, and also stopped at The Alpaca Experience — because, why wouldn’t we.
We headed into Camden, which is certainly one of the loveliest coastal towns in Maine, with a small but vibrant downtown, scenic harbor and wonderful homes. Our favorites were on Bay View Street, where the Owl & Turtle Café Bookstore sat across from the Cashmere Goat. Wool, books and coffee are a few of our favorite attractions. We had been up in April for a preliminary look through the area, so these two photos are from that visit.
Then it was off to the Camden Real Estate Company, where we started our tour of four properties. The first was in town, a beautiful old home right in Camden that was far too much house for our needs. The second, also in Camden, was an ocean-front property that would require building a new house and was, in our opinion, too much work at this stage in our lives.
Then we moved on to Northport, which sits right above Lincolnville and doesn’t have the price tag or taxes of homes in Camden. The first was a magnificent, open concept home, newer construction, with a wonderful view of the ocean — from an enclosed porch that made it tough to resist.
Finally, we moved on to the last property and the reason for our visit. The home was smaller, the view good but not quite as good as the other one. It was also open concept. It had advantages, mostly the price, but by the time we scheduled the trip and got up there, someone had made a bid and the house was already under contract.
So it was back to drown our sorrows in martinis and lobster at the Whale’s Tooth Pub, followed by a walk on the beach and ice cream by the ocean.
We may not have found our home yet, but Maine seemed perfect for us.
One of the biggest surprises in Kyoto were the coffee shops, and here are some of the places we found wonderful brewed coffee, espresso, lattes and espresso-matcha latte.
We got our first taste when we walked east through Gion along Ninen-zaka and ducked into a side street across from Kodai-j Temple. While the brewing process looked at first like a science experiment, it turned out to be what we would come to know in nearly every coffee shop we experienced—fresh, delicious coffee brewed before us with care. Here, we chose our cups, which were first warmed with hot water, and on the way out selected a paper crane.
Later that day, before crossing the bridge and heading to Morita Washi in Downtown Kyoto, we stopped in the Tonbo Café. Again, it was a freshly brewed cup presented perfectly, a respite during long days of walking. And this time, we listened to jazz as we sipped, the music we would hear in every coffee shop and cafe in Kyoto.
One of our favorites was Café Yoshiko set along Ponto-Cho, a delightful little road that runs north and south once you cross from Gion to Downtown Kyoto, and next to a small, wooden foot bridge. Here you can gaze out over the water and watch people go by.
In Arashiyama, we found spacious Café Akamanma after visiting the Bamboo Grove, and we had our first experience with the fluffy toast that became hard to resist (at least for the one of us who is not gluten free).
There were two coffee shops near our guest house in Gion. The much heralded Arabika, along the road that leads to Kiyomizu-Dera, lived up to its billing and had a line out the door. We passed. But the upscale Coffee & Tea on Higashioji-dori, though a bit pricey, served delicious cups of espresso and matcha latte. And the Zen experience didn’t feel anything like home.
Also in Gion, around the corner from Café Tonbo, we found a small café with good coffee and toast.
And let’s not forget the counter in the basement of the Takashimaya Department Store in Downtown Kyoto, a wonderful surprise which we’ll explore further in the next blog on food in Kyoto.
Up Next: The Food of Kyoto – Nishiki Market, Department Store Dining and Mamecha